Most analog watches sold today are either powered by batteries or are self-winding. Self-winding watches are more commonly referred to as automatic watches, but both terms are misnomers.
If you’re considering either type of watch, it helps to understand their operational differences, which have different implications for maintenance, resale value, and other factors.
Automatic Watch Operation
Self-winding watches don’t actually wind themselves, they’re wound by the natural back-and-forth swing of the wearer’s arm while walking and moving during the day. Inside the watch is a semi-circular disk, called a rotor, which acts as a pendulum that pivots in place, turning a coil of flat wire called a mainspring. Being spring-loaded, the mainspring expands outward after each ratcheting from the rotor, driving the gear train to move the hands of the watch. A quartz watch, by comparison, replaces the rotor with a battery-powered crystal oscillator that agitates the mainspring.
Keeping Watches Wound
Unlike quartz watches, automatic watches need to be moved around somewhat regularly to keep ticking. A day of normal activity from the wearer will keep the watch wound and running for a day or two if left on a nightstand, but it will run down before long. This generally isn’t an issue for owners of one watch, but many watch enthusiasts have surprisingly extensive collections—often dozens of watches that all can’t possibly be worn frequently enough to keep wound by wearing them.
So collectors use a mechanical storage solution called a watch winder to keep watches rotated in constant or periodic intervals. Different watch models need to be rotated at different speeds and directions, or they might need a rest interval to prevent overwinding, so a programmable watch winder is recommended. When looking for the best winder for a particular watch, it’s best to search for a watch winder review that includes the name of the watch model in the query. Expect to spend between $150 and $300 for a quality single-watch winder, and $250 to $500 for a dual-watch winder. Some winders, usually in the $2,000-$3,000 range, can accommodate a dozen watches.
Strictly speaking, watch winders aren’t necessary, especially if you only have one watch rather than a collection of watches. Some collectors understand the utility of winders, but opt for low-tech storage solutions like watch boxes, which are essentially jewelry boxes for men designed specifically for dress watches. There are two disadvantages to eschewing watch winders. First, each watch needs to be wound individually before it’s worn, and the time will need to be set again. Second, the lubrication in the watches that are idle for long periods won’t circulate regularly, since the oil will settle toward the bottom half of the movement (the mechanism inside the watch case), leading to premature wear and the need for more frequent maintenance.
The Premium on Automatic Watches
Automatic watches have a oft-deserved reputation for being expensive. Automatic watches by Rolex, for instance, tend to cluster in the $3,000-$6,000 range. Other watch manufacturers, like Patek Philippe, Tag Heuer or Cartier, offer many automatic watches between $8,000 and $30,000. At the extreme end of luxury, you can find more than a few luxury brands on Amazon that sell watches in the low six figures. Quartz watches, on the other hand, are typically under $1,000, and quite often less than $300.
Why the difference? First, it should be emphasized that there are automatic watches that can be found for under $300; they’re just not as frequently distributed in retail channels as digital and quartz alternatives, which tend to offer more features, such as countdown timers, chronograph subdials, or time zone displays.
The main reason for the higher pricing of automatic watches is that they’re considered “real” watches. The authenticity of automatic watch movements may seem like a rather esoteric criterion to consumers who aren’t watch geeks, but consider how much more people will pay for goods made with real leather, real diamonds, real gold. There are many brands of jeans selling for over $500 when it’s possible to buy a pair of mass market Levis for well under $50. True watch geeks find the mechanics of automatic watch movements aesthetically more satisfying than quartz watches, regardless of exterior or functional similarities.
Automatic watches are the premium end of the watch spectrum. They’re effectively an extension of the owner, since they’re powered directly by the movement of the owner. Automatic watch fans value them enough to spend thousands of dollars collecting as many of them as possible, and will usually spends hundreds more on accessories like watch winders and watch boxes. Collectors of automatic watches will accept no substitutes.
If you’re considering either type of watch, it helps to understand their operational differences, which have different implications for maintenance, resale value, and other factors.
Automatic Watch Operation
Self-winding watches don’t actually wind themselves, they’re wound by the natural back-and-forth swing of the wearer’s arm while walking and moving during the day. Inside the watch is a semi-circular disk, called a rotor, which acts as a pendulum that pivots in place, turning a coil of flat wire called a mainspring. Being spring-loaded, the mainspring expands outward after each ratcheting from the rotor, driving the gear train to move the hands of the watch. A quartz watch, by comparison, replaces the rotor with a battery-powered crystal oscillator that agitates the mainspring.
Keeping Watches Wound
Unlike quartz watches, automatic watches need to be moved around somewhat regularly to keep ticking. A day of normal activity from the wearer will keep the watch wound and running for a day or two if left on a nightstand, but it will run down before long. This generally isn’t an issue for owners of one watch, but many watch enthusiasts have surprisingly extensive collections—often dozens of watches that all can’t possibly be worn frequently enough to keep wound by wearing them.
So collectors use a mechanical storage solution called a watch winder to keep watches rotated in constant or periodic intervals. Different watch models need to be rotated at different speeds and directions, or they might need a rest interval to prevent overwinding, so a programmable watch winder is recommended. When looking for the best winder for a particular watch, it’s best to search for a watch winder review that includes the name of the watch model in the query. Expect to spend between $150 and $300 for a quality single-watch winder, and $250 to $500 for a dual-watch winder. Some winders, usually in the $2,000-$3,000 range, can accommodate a dozen watches.
Strictly speaking, watch winders aren’t necessary, especially if you only have one watch rather than a collection of watches. Some collectors understand the utility of winders, but opt for low-tech storage solutions like watch boxes, which are essentially jewelry boxes for men designed specifically for dress watches. There are two disadvantages to eschewing watch winders. First, each watch needs to be wound individually before it’s worn, and the time will need to be set again. Second, the lubrication in the watches that are idle for long periods won’t circulate regularly, since the oil will settle toward the bottom half of the movement (the mechanism inside the watch case), leading to premature wear and the need for more frequent maintenance.
The Premium on Automatic Watches
Automatic watches have a oft-deserved reputation for being expensive. Automatic watches by Rolex, for instance, tend to cluster in the $3,000-$6,000 range. Other watch manufacturers, like Patek Philippe, Tag Heuer or Cartier, offer many automatic watches between $8,000 and $30,000. At the extreme end of luxury, you can find more than a few luxury brands on Amazon that sell watches in the low six figures. Quartz watches, on the other hand, are typically under $1,000, and quite often less than $300.
Why the difference? First, it should be emphasized that there are automatic watches that can be found for under $300; they’re just not as frequently distributed in retail channels as digital and quartz alternatives, which tend to offer more features, such as countdown timers, chronograph subdials, or time zone displays.
The main reason for the higher pricing of automatic watches is that they’re considered “real” watches. The authenticity of automatic watch movements may seem like a rather esoteric criterion to consumers who aren’t watch geeks, but consider how much more people will pay for goods made with real leather, real diamonds, real gold. There are many brands of jeans selling for over $500 when it’s possible to buy a pair of mass market Levis for well under $50. True watch geeks find the mechanics of automatic watch movements aesthetically more satisfying than quartz watches, regardless of exterior or functional similarities.
Automatic watches are the premium end of the watch spectrum. They’re effectively an extension of the owner, since they’re powered directly by the movement of the owner. Automatic watch fans value them enough to spend thousands of dollars collecting as many of them as possible, and will usually spends hundreds more on accessories like watch winders and watch boxes. Collectors of automatic watches will accept no substitutes.
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